Credit: Nadiya Hussain's cookbook Nadiya's Kitchen is out now (Penguin, HB, £20)
"This is one of the earliest memories I have of being absolutely astonished by flavour. My mum would normally cook this dish with whole pieces of fish, and sliced fish. None of this ‘easy fish’, as my dad likes to call it – it was always cooked with all the bones still in, to boost the flavour. We would spend a long time picking it apart to eat it, and placing the bones a safe distance away from our plates. Traditionally we’d eat it with our hands (it’s near enough impossible with cutlery). Although it was delicious, these days there isn’t always time to sit at our plates for an hour, and since having my own kids I am the biggest fan of filleted fish. Granted, it imparts less flavour to this dish – but the clementine peel well and truly makes up for that." (Nadiya Hussain)